Me enjoying a great local pint outside the pub, June 2002

Had a wonderful day on the Cambrian Rail line. Bought a rover ticket that meant we could hop on and off at various stops all day. A useful way to travel to the Penhelig Arms is indeed by train, as Penhelig station, a tiny request stop is but a few yards from the pub. Although it's only a request stop there's trains every hour or two Monday through Saturday right through into mid-evening, or late evening if you're heading towards Machynlleth. Particularly handy as the pub doesn't have much parking on site, though there is a car park further towards the main town. Anyhow, ended up alighting at Aberdovey, not realising at the time that Penhelig Arms and Penhelig station might be next door to each other. Even so, had a very pleasant wander along the sandy beach in the warm sunshine, with amazing views of the River Dovey (Afon Dyfi) and across to Plynlimon (Pumlumon Fawr). Had some very nice fish and chips and a cup of tea not realising that the pub offers excellent food!

Right, down to business. The Penhelig dates back to the 18th century when it was known as Y Dafarn Fach (Little Inn) and later in the 19th century Charles Dickens is supposed to have stayed here. The fine views to be had must have must have provided much inspiration. This is a very popular place and has an excellent reputation for its food and if you'd like to eat in the restaurant you will probably have to book several weeks in advance! Viewing through the window did indeed confirm plenty of serious eating in progress, and pretty amazing food. If however you're like us and never quite know where you're going to be tomorrow let alone 6 weeks in advance, do not dispair, there's the Fisherman's bar next door, that if you're lucky they'll be able to squeeze you in. Lots of tasty fresh fish on the menu, and plenty of interesting and unusual dishes. A very comfortable wood-panelled bar filled with a healthy mix of locals and tourists like ourselves. We fitted in very well and were soon chatting away to some random folk about all sorts of stuff (if you know me like all good (or bad) radio DJ's I can waffle on for several minutes at the end of a show). On cold day's there's a warming fire, on warmer days, why not do what we did and wander over the road and sit on the sea wall to take in some sea air and enjoy a pint of their excellent real ale. They had two local Welsh brews on, one a lovely dark number from up in Snowdonia. Lovely.

Plenty of accommodation is here, bit beyond our price range, but if you fancy splashing out, you won't be disappointed. Very high quality accommodation with almost all rooms having commanding views over the estuary.

AJ and I on Aberdovey beach, June 2002